Promise me that when you come to Venice, you will visit the fishmarket at Rialto.
The fishmarket?!
Yes, I know - there are so many important things to do and see here, like the Basilica and the Doge's Palace, Accademia and the Guggenheim, not to mention Prada and Gucci and the new Hard Rock Cafe (Right! Like you've never been to one of those before!).
But you'll visit Rialto sometime anyway, so why not go early one morning and see this classic (and probably oldest) Venetian ritual - the exchange of hard-earned cash for ultra-fresh fish and seafood? Here's what to do...
Get yourself over to the Ca' d'Oro vaporetto stop, then walk to the Santa Sofia traghetto station. (Anyone can point it out for you.) When the boat comes, pony up the 50 centesimi, step in and ride across the Grand Canal straight over to the Mercato del Pesce just like the locals do. (You could just walk to the mercato, but this way is a lot more fun.)
Wander around and see what's for sale. Listen and watch what happens as commerce is conducted - I suspect little has changed here for hundreds of years. Pick up a few tips from the scallop shuckers and the eel skinners. Find the old plaque written in Venetian dialect that lists the minimum legal sizes for fish and shellfish being sold - it's still the standard here. Stick around as the vendors close up and you'll see a hilarious ruckus as the seabirds fight for discarded scraps. I guarantee you'll be looking at the real Venice.
If you would like to read more on this subject, visit my original blog (access it through my profile) and see these posts:
Rialto, 16 December 2007 (about my shopping experience at Rialto)
Fish fight, 15 February 2008 (about those rumbling seabirds)
Right now!!, 4 June 2008 (about a great little lunch spot at the market)
Shopping: the seafood, 13 June 2008 (about the variety of seafood available at the market)
