I cannot in good conscience encourage you to visit Venice during Carnevale season because, quite frankly, I do not think Carnevale is much fun as it is made to seem, nor do I like the shortsighted, destructive things Venice does to herself in the name of Carnevale. I think the city is much better enjoyed at just about any other time. But I can certainly understand the rest of the world’s fascination with the masked festivities so... OK. Very well. Let’s talk about it.
It’s good to remember that today’s Venetian pre-Lenten blowout is not an extension of the centuries old tradition that gave Venice her reputation for theatrics and decadence, but rather something that was recreated in the 1970s, as a means to give tourism a boost and bring more cash into the city’s struggling economy. In short, it’s fake. Still, fake can be fun for some, so come if you must.
That said, you will want to book well in advance because Venetian hotels are jammed and very costly at this time of year. Another idea might be to rent an apartment. Go online to find one. There are scads of them available. Use your map and pay some attention to location, but remember that prices are better off the beaten path and, as this is a rather small place, nothing is really too far from anything else. Proximity to a vaporetto station is nice, but not an absolute must.
Now you must decide if you are the adventurous, get-into-the-spirit type or the shy, stand-on-the-sidelines type. If you are the latter, your work is done. Just arrive in Venice and gape and point with the other onlookers. If you are the former, you will need something to do besides wandering around town. The Venetian tourist board’s marketing promises aside, festive opportunities for showing off your costume and reveling with other merrymakers don’t just spontaneously spring up on every street corner. So plan ahead.
Last year I was surprised at how little actually happens that's free or cheap during Carnevale. Just a parade, some loud live music, and a handful of street and theatrical performances. If you want to really dress up and attend a costume event or two, you will need to find out what parties are open to the general public and make reservations in advance. Again, the internet is your source. Prepare to burn a good-sized hole in your wallet… and that’s before you rent your costume and buy your mask!
If you would like to read about the details of my curmudgeonly view of Carnevale, visit my original blog (access it through my profile) and see Post-Carnevale thoughts, 7 February 2008. But if you’ve read this far in this post, I imagine you would prefer to skip it.
Still, you might have fun with:
Frittelle, Galani & Castagnole, 25 January 2008 (about special Carnevale sweets)
Carnevale weirdness, 5 February 2008 (about my own odd Carnevale memories)
I spy., 3 February 2008 (about the fun I had spying while masked and costumed)
