06 January 2009

All roads lead to...


First time visitors, never worry about getting lost in Venice. It's a very small place (a bit more than twice the size of New York's Central Park, according to John Berendt's City of Falling Angels) and nearly all roads lead to Piazza San Marco or Rialto Bridge (sometimes in both directions). And to keep you oriented, there's a great, big S-shaped canal right down the middle. It separates the city into halves, each with three sestieri (sort of like boroughs or counties).

Arm yourself with a good, firm map. No flimsy paper stuff, and make sure it has street names. (I prefer Streetwise Venice - nicely laminated, easy to read, a snap to fold, fits in a pocket.) That said, don't be overly dependent on that map. Let yourself become lost now and again. In a short while you'll see a directional arrow sign like this one and be right back on track.

But heed this critical warning! A Venetian address is all but worthless to anyone but a Venetian postman. Houses and businesses in Venice are numbered sequentially in each sestiere beginning with #1. (In the sestiere of San Marco, that's the Basilica!) Addresses snake around corners, past locked gates, and through sottoporteghi (little tunnels underneath houses) and so #350 may be directly across the street from #600. Thus, you'll need your destination's campo (little square) or calle (street) name more than its address. But often you will still need the address to know your destination's sestiere because many of the same campo and calle names show up in two or more (or all six!) sestieri.

Confused? No worries. Relax, put away the map, and look up! You're in Venice!